Civilize Chaoyang

Chances are, if you’ve ever used an escalator, you know the unwritten rule: walk on the left, stand on the right. Chances are, if you’ve used enough of them, you’ve run into a few people who don’t abide to this standard. Chances are, you’ve wished you could tell them what you think of them. And chances are, also, that you’ve only merely cleared your throat as you climbed the stairs behind them.

Here in China, it’s a bit different. While this may be the rule, its likelihood of happening is the exception. So fine, that’s annoying. Of course that’s annoying. But I wouldn’t write a blog post about standing on the left. No, the phrase of the day would be “becoming civilized,” and thanks to a campaign in one district of Beijing, that’s what the end-goal is.

“Civilize Choayang: Magnificent With Me!” the slogan goes. Aside from the clear Chinglish (really? A district-wide campaign couldn’t afford an editor?) there’s something else that’s lost in translation. The idea of a city being “uncivilized” seems a bit harsh. We couldn’t have gone with “modernize?” Even “beautify?” But no, the effort to “civilize” Choayang district goes beyond the beautification efforts that sprung up, even the addition of new subway stops and manicured parks. It means, by and large: no spitting. No cursing loudly. Use escalators in the proper fashion. Stand in line when waiting for the bus or subway. In general, shape up.  

Among my friends, it’s become the running joke. “I was walking the other day in one of the less-civilized areas of Beijing…” a story will start. Recently on an airplane, my friend turned to me and pointed at the man pushing past those waiting to get off the plane, holding a bag over his head. “Look at that uncivilized man” she scoffed. We’ve managed to incorporate the word into our everyday vocabulary. If we had a nice day, filled with a manicure and dinner out, we’ve had a “civilized day.” If we’re swamped and exhausted after too much shoving and pushing at the Zoo Market, we’ll say we can’t wait to get back to “civilized China.” My friend Ryan, has taken it one step further. Fluent in Chinese, he’s able to directly whisper the phrase into the ears of strangers on the subway as they shove him to get on. “This is Civilize Choayang, what do you think you’re doing?” He’ll scold. He’s the enforcer. He’ll climb stairs behind people, whispering the phrase. “Civilize Chaoyang. Civilize Chaoyang.”

I’ve heard in Shenzhen, another city in China, the campaign has started there too. They’ve taken it one step further though, and actually allegedly have “Stand in Line Days” where everyone practices queuing up for the subway, instead of the mass pushing that usually occurs. Ryan swears someone will throw up a hand signal, and everyone will line up. Like I said, he’s the civilization enforcer, so I believe what he says.

I wouldn’t want anyone to think that this is somehow a condescending look at traditional Chinese culture. This isn’t an expat-lead initiative, by any means. The signs are everywhere. In fact, the other day I heard a story from someone I was on a trip with. We were trading terrible taxi-driver stories, and she mentioned that recently she had told her taxi driver, in English, to “fuck off.” To her surprise, he apparently understood the phrase. He looked at her, scowling, and sharply said “Where are you from? Because this is civilized Chaoyang.”

So there you have it. We could all learn a lesson from the Civilize Chaoyang campaign.