Tuesday, August 30, 2011

The early lessons

After about a week of travel throughout Thailand, I can’t say I’m significantly more knowledgeable about backpacking, Thailand, or life in general. I can, however, narrow down my first week’s education into a few important “lessons learned.” Here they are, in no particular order:
4 Important Lessons Learned from the Very First Week of Travel
Lesson 1: I’m weird everywhere.
This lesson has been brought to my attention time and again, of course, but I’ve never felt my weirdness as strongly as I do here. Example one: a few days ago, Shira and I embarked on a trek through northern Thailand.  Instead of staying overnight at a campsite, we opted to follow our guide to one of the Lahu “hill tribe” villages that are scattered throughout the mountainous region of the north. I was afraid it would be somewhat of a spectacle, as often times while doing similar things in South Africa, I have been made to watch “traditional dances” or forced to awkwardly stare into people’s homes during these cultural experiences. I shouldn’t have worried, though, as it seemed in this case I was the spectacle. I cooed to a baby; it burst into tears. I waved to children, they collapsed into fits of giggles, hiding behind one another. A group of soccer players stared at us, the spectators. One brave little boy even ran up to us, laughed and shook his butt in our direction. Another lesson, I suppose: little boys are little boys everywhere.
Another example of my weirdness comes from my love of running for pleasure. After spending a significant amount of time in somewhat rural Kentucky this past year, I’m used to getting stared at during evening runs. I’d imagine those viewing me looking up from their pulled-pork sandwiches and asking their dinner companions why I was moving at a fast-pace, outdoors, without a motor vehicle. I ran anyways. When I took a half-hour to stretch my legs one morning in the small town of Pai, in northern Thailand, I received the all too familiar stare. “Crazy white American,” I’d imagine them saying as I ran by, attempting to bow politely to every-passer by. Not an easy task, by the way, if you’re simultaneously trying to avoid being chased by street dogs and run over my motor taxis. Ah, motorbikes. Brings me to lesson #2...

Lesson 2: Riding a motorbike is not like riding a bike.
This lesson is shorter, and better explained by Shira’s black and blue legs, her various gashes and the pitiful looks we get just about everywhere we go. It was a terrifying moment to see my good friend smash into the side of a building. It was equally terrifying having to choose between a day at the hospital and cleaning up the mess ourselves. This decision was made for me, as the first thing Shira said, with tear-filled eyes, was “I still want to go to the waterfall today.” For anyone wondering, we did go to the waterfall that day. We went on motorbikes. Motorbikes driven by men that we are assured had been driving since the ripe old age of 11.
Lesson 3: There is such a thing as too spicy.
I used to think I could hang. I would douse eggs in hot sauce, slather sushi in wasabi, even eat jalapeno peppers straight out of the jar (remember? I’m weird). In Thailand, I’ve learned that the Thai word for “spicy” translates directly into “tears-running-snot-dripping-want-to-pull-your-tongue-out-of-your-mouth-may-not-ever-taste-again-hot.” Similar to motorbike riding, I now leave spicy to the experts.
Lesson 4: I can be brave, but cursing helps.
Yesterday, I went cliff jumping. I jumped off of an actual cliff into the Pai river. I think I managed to make the plunge only after yelling the word “fuck” four or five times to relieve my shaking hands. The day before, I trekked through a jungle. In case you’re wondering what the difference between a trek and a hike is, I can summarize by saying that we bush-whacked through bamboo forests, climbed hills while ankle-deep in mud from the storm earlier that week, and used muscles that we never knew existed to pull ourselves along. Upon doing so, I got bit my mosquitoes approximately 127 times and managed to keep trekking only after telling them exactly where they could go. In a word, it was unforgettable. But like I said, cursing helps. 

In case I've done a terrible job at describing the amount of fun we're having while learning all of these important lessons, here it is in sum: I haven't laughed this hard at myself in a very, very long time.

6 comments:

  1. This is a wonderful post! It's safe to say that mother and daughter have both been dropping the f-bomb lately, but for very different reasons. Please keep on applying the bug repellent!

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  2. Hahaha, Jo! I love your running story, that's exactly how I felt in Wales!! Once in France I was running and a guy pulled over and yelled something in French which my friend told me meant "Keep running fat-asses!" Although to be fair a guy in Daytona Beach also once yelled that at me in English. I'm glad you're having a good time!

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  3. wonderful. though one correction. My daughter is certainly NOT weird!!! she is, uhm, unusual.

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  4. You are too awesome.
    (By the way, "notetaker 1" is Becca. Long story. You think you're weird?)

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  5. I LOVE your blog!!! It is so great to hear about what you've been up to. Keep updating it so I can live vicariously through you, ok?

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  6. Jo Jo! I think we also went to that waterfall in Pai and had similar motorbike trouble getting there. So excited to hear more about your trip! I'm getting so nostalgic!

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